Instead of using regular baker’s yeast, both Panettone and Pandoro traditionally use a starter dough known as lievito madre or lievito naturale (natural yeast). Here’s how it’s prepared:
Mix all-purpose flour (I used specialized flour for yeasted doughs, “Dijamant”) and water into a soft but not too firm ball of dough. This dough must rest for 10 days in a container (I used a large plastic bowl, which I cleaned each time I returned the kneaded dough). I covered the dough with plastic wrap (freezer bag type) and a dish towel. Each day, the dough must be kneaded and “bathed” or rinsed gently under a little running water. For the last three days, this process is repeated three times a day. You’ll know the fermentation is working when the dough becomes airy inside and develops a slightly sour smell. I had to add a bit of flour each time I kneaded it because the dough was sticky—by around the 10th day, it stopped sticking and was firmer than in the beginning (which is why it’s made softer on the first day).
All ingredients that are later mixed with this starter to make the cake dough must be at room temperature (about 68–75°F) to prevent “shocking” the dough and slowing or halting the rising process.
Panettone Recipe (makes 3–4 large cakes)
Mixture I (Prepare in the evening):
- 13 oz (370 g) lievito madre (natural sourdough starter)
- 10 oz (280 g) unsalted butter, softened
- 10 oz (280 g) sugar
- 7 oz (200 g) egg yolks (about 12 yolks)
- 8 cups (1 kg) all-purpose flour or Italian “00” flour, warmed to about 75°F (24°C)
- 0.35 oz (10 g or about 2 tsp) malt extract (e.g., barley malt syrup)
- 1 ¾ cups (400 ml) lukewarm water at 68°F (20°C)
- Optional: 1 tbsp vanilla sugar for aroma
Preparation:
Mix all ingredients in a stand mixer for about 30 minutes.
If mixing by hand:
- Beat egg yolks with sugar and malt extract until creamy.
- Add softened butter and mix well.
- Dissolve lievito madre in lukewarm water.
- Gradually add flour and egg mixture to form a smooth dough.
Let the dough rise in a warm place (78–82°F or 26–28°C) for 10–12 hours, ideally overnight.
Mixture II (Prepare in the morning):
- 5 ½ cups (660 g) all-purpose flour (warmed to 75°F/24°C)
- 3 ½ cups (500 g) egg yolks (about 30 yolks)
- 1 ½ cups (300 g) sugar
- ½ cup (150 g) water at 68°F (20°C)
- 1 tsp (1.7 g) salt
- 1 ½ tbsp (20 g) honey
- 3 tbsp (30 g) powdered milk
- 1 ¼ cups (300 g) candied lemon and lime peel
- 3 ½ cups (700 g) raisins
- 2 oz (56 g) unsalted butter
Preparation:
- Mix all ingredients well except butter.
- Melt butter gently on low heat until liquid and soak raisins in melted butter.
- (If you don’t have candied lemon peel, you can substitute with lemon and orange zest.)
- Combine this mixture with the first dough mixture; the dough will be soft and loose.
- Mix by machine for about 40 minutes (or by hand until well combined).
- Let rise for 30 minutes.
Shaping and Final Rising:
- Shape dough into loaves depending on the size of your pans (ideally each loaf weighs about 2.2 lbs / 1 kg, but adjust to your pan size).
- Let rise for 30 minutes at about 86°F (30°C). Use your oven warmed to 122°F (50°C) and turned off to keep dough warm.
- Place dough in well-greased pans, filling them only halfway (dough will double in size).
- Let rise again until dough doubles. This can take over 30 minutes.
Baking:
- Bake at 375°F (190–200°C) for about 40 minutes.
- Cool cakes upside down in their pans.
- Once cool, remove from pans.
Pandoro Recipe
Start the procedure earlier in the afternoon.
Mixture I:
- 10.5 oz (300 g) lievito madre (natural sourdough starter)
- 2 ½ cups (300 g) all-purpose flour, warmed to 75°F (24°C)
- 3 ½ tbsp (50 g) sugar
- 1 ¾ tbsp (25 g) unsalted butter
- 5 ¼ oz (150 g) eggs (about 3 large eggs)
Preparation:
Mix all ingredients well and let rise for 2.5 hours at about 82°F (28°C).
Mixture II:
- 4 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour, warmed to 75°F (24°C)
- ½ cup (125 g) sugar
- 3 ½ tbsp (50 g) unsalted butter
- 8 ¾ oz (250 g) eggs (about 5 large eggs)
Preparation:
Mix all ingredients well and combine with Mixture I. Knead well and let rise for 3 hours in a warm oven.
Mixture III:
- 6 ½ cups (900 g) all-purpose flour, warmed to 75°F (24°C)
- 5 ¼ tbsp (75 g) unsalted butter
- 14 oz (400 g) egg yolks (about 28 yolks)
- 1 ¾ tbsp (25 g) cocoa butter (optional, can be omitted)
- Vanilla (use vanilla bean pod infused into milk, then remove before adding milk to dough)
- 1/3 small bottle vanilla extract (about 1 tsp)
Preparation:
Mix all ingredients and combine with Mixture I. Let rise for 3 hours at 82°F (28°C).
Add:
- 7 oz (200 g) lukewarm water
- 7 oz (200 g) lukewarm milk (infused with vanilla bean, cooled)
Mix well, divide dough into 3 parts (dough will be sticky and elastic).
Butter Incorporation:
- On each part, add 7 oz (200 g) softened unsalted butter.
- Fold butter into dough like laminating puff pastry (stretch and fold).
- Place each dough piece into separate containers as dough will be soft.
- Chill for 15 minutes, then fold again.
- Chill again, then divide into loaves weighing about 2.2 lbs (1 kg) or size of your pans.
- Knead well, place in pans, and let rise overnight.
Baking:
- Bake at 340°F (170°C) for about 50 minutes.
- Cool like Panettone (inverted in pans).
Serving:
Pandoro can be served with warm chocolate sauce or any glaze of your choice.
Note: Oven temps and times may vary based on your equipment and pan types. Patience is key for great results!
